HELP! new cam and heads problem

[AmberFireDaK]

If you turned the distributor it will throw off the fuel sync...

[njdak]

i think thats what i did how do i see if thats wrong and how would i go about fixing it

[deanler]

Go to a shop and have them put a scan tool on it, they can tell you what your fuel sync is at. While they have the tool on it get them to check your o2 readings

[ole-busted]

^^
thats what i'd go with
if you don't have the haynes or chiltons to check which step you missed

[daktaspt]

I'd start by pulling the plugs and checking compression in all cyls. That will eliminate valve damage. Next I would static set the timing. More than likely you're off a tooth with the dist. You will also want to double check firing order.

[njdak]

any one else have input

[ole-busted]

here is the guide to do it.
REMOVAL


See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

Remove the splash shield (if equipped).







Fig. Fig. 1: Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screws for the distributor pickup lead and splash shield-2.5L engine






Fig. Fig. 2: Once detached, remove the splash shield on 2.5L engines to gain access to the distributor

If necessary, remove the air cleaner assembly and connecting tubes.
Unplug the pickup lead wire connector(s) from the wiring harness.







Fig. Fig. 3: Unscrew the distributor cap retaining screws-2.5L engine

Leaving the distributor wires connected, unfasten the clips or screws that retain the distributor cap and lift off the cap.







Fig. Fig. 4: Rotor alignment mark-V6 and V8 engines






Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the distributor hold-down clamp-V6 and V8 engines






Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the cap with the wires connected-2.5L engine shown






Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the ignition rotor by simply lifting it out-2.5L engine

If insufficient clearance is obtained by removing the cap with the wires still connected, all or some of the spark plug wires should be tagged and disconnected from the cap for better access.






Fig. Fig. 8: Unbolt and remove the distributor hold-down clamp






Fig. Fig. 9: Install the ignition rotor by aligning the grooves-V6 and V8 engines






Fig. Fig. 10: When fully detached, lift the distributor out of the vehicle

Bump the engine around until the rotor is pointing at No. 1 cylinder firing position, with the timing marks on the front case and crank pulley are aligned. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
Mark the distributor body and the engine block to indicate the position of the distributor in the block. Mark the distributor body to indicate the rotor position. These marks are used as guides when installing the distributor.
Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and bracket. Carefully lift the distributor from the engine. The shaft may rotate slightly as the distributor is removed. Make a note of where the movement stops. That is where the rotor must point when the distributor is reinstalled into the block.



INSTALLATION

Ignition Timing Undisturbed

If the crankshaft has not been rotated while the distributor was removed from the engine, use the reference marks made before removal to correctly position the distributor in the block. The shaft may have to be rotated slightly to engage the intermediate shaft gear (V6 and V8).
Install the distributor while holding the rotor in position, allowing it to move only enough to engage the slot in the drive gear.
Install pickup coil leads and distributor cap. Make sure all high tension wires are firmly snapped in cap towers. Install distributor hold-down clamp screw and tighten to 200 inch lbs. (22.5 Nm).


Ignition Timing Disturbed

See Figures 11 and 12

Perform this procedure if the crankshaft was rotated or otherwise distributed (for example, during engine rebuilding) after the distributor was removed.

Rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The simplest way to do this is to remove the spark plug from the No. 1 cylinder and place your thumb over the hole. Slowly turn the engine by hand in the normal direction of rotation until compression is felt at the hole.


Other ways to check for TDC of the compression stroke: The most fail-safe (and time consuming) way is to remove the cylinder head cover and crank the engine until both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. Or you could use a compression gauge to determine that as you rotate the engine, the piston is coming up on compression. Also there are specialty tools available that screw in the sparkplug hole (like a compression tester) and whistle as you rotate the engine into its compression stroke. In all cases, verify the timing mark is at 0 degrees when you believe you have found TDC.

Ensure that the indicating mark on the crankshaft vibration damper is aligned to the 0 degree (TDC) mark on the timing chain cover.







Fig. Fig. 11: Distributor hold-down bolt location-2.5L engine

Clean the distributor mounting at the engine and distributor base. Lightly oil the rubber O-ring seal on the distributor housing.







Fig. Fig. 12: Distributor hold-down bolt location-V6 and V8 engines

Hold the distributor over the mounting pad on the cylinder block so that the distributor body flange coincides with the mounting pad and the rotor points to the No. 1 cylinder firing position.
Install the distributor while holding the rotor in position, allowing it to move only enough to engage the slot in the drive gear.
Install pickup coil leads and distributor cap. Make sure all high tension wires are firmly snapped in cap towers. Install distributor hold-down clamp screw and tighten to 200 inch lbs. (22.5 Nm)

[ole-busted]

that came off of autzones site. if you register you can get repair guide for free. i think i put it for a 94 though

[daknut]

damn. ole-busted strikes out with the manual. pfft

ok it might be a good idea

[njdak]

thanks for the help. i went through that and it still is running like shit. i think that it might be the fule sync. thats the only thing that i can come up with