A/C Question, need a little help. - Dodge Dakota Forum : Custom Dakota Truck Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-04-2011, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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A/C Question, need a little help.

My A/C has not blown cold air out for five years or so.

I really don't remember how it went out, weather it slowly started blowing warmer and warmer air out, or weather it just quit.

But I am finally getting around to doing something about it.

I bought a recharge kit, the one with the pressure gauge.

My problem is when I hook up the pressure gauge turn the truck and a/c on the clutch fan compressor thing spins for a few seconds and then stops.

If it is spinning the pressure is really low like 10 psi
If it is not spinning the pressure is way up in the red zone

I have been doing some research and found a link on google
A/C compressor starts and stops - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

They say i need to put a jumper wire from my battery to my clutch fan,

Where do I hook the jumper wire to on the clutch fan?

Can i stick the wire in the relay slot and then to my battery?

If so which number slot on the relay
?


Thanks for the help, I hope this makes sense....


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now why did you go taking the dash out? did you paint it??
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Nope I was just bored....lol



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post #2 of 7 Old 08-05-2011, 09:07 AM
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Does the air come out of all the right vents when you change which vents it comes out of?
Does it blow at all the right speeds?
Is there noise from the compressor when its engaged?
Did your recharge kit include dye? If so look for leaks
Does the clutch only engage for a few seconds and then stay off? Does this happen at any speed?
Have you tried swapping the a/c relay with another known good one?
Yes you can use a jumper wire to see if the relay is bad
Use a voltmeter to check for power and ground.





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Last edited by djwolf37; 08-05-2011 at 09:11 AM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-05-2011, 04:39 PM
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Mine went out on my 2000 Dakota Sport last week - it was fine and then just suddenly quit blowing cold. Had it diagnosed and it's the accumulator, apparently. About a $1,000.00 fix from what I've heard - it'll have to wait 'til next year...

I hope you don't have the same problem...

Take Care,

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post #4 of 7 Old 08-08-2011, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys.

Does the air come out of all the right vents when you change which vents it comes out of?Yes
Does it blow at all the right speeds?yes
Is there noise from the compressor when its engaged?No just the sound of the clutch pulley spinning
Did your recharge kit include dye? NoIf so look for leaks
Does the clutch only engage for a few seconds and then stay off?It stays off for a few seconds then comes back on.
Does this happen at any speed?yes
Have you tried swapping the a/c relay with another known good one?Yes
Yes you can use a jumper wire to see if the relay is bad
Use a voltmeter to check for power and ground.

I ended up just pulling the trigger, literally one the recharge can I just used the whole can and the pressure regulated, the clutch fan stayed running, and the air was COLD as cold can be. So i guess it was just so low on the juice that it wasn't functioning properly.


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now why did you go taking the dash out? did you paint it??
Quote:
Originally Posted by CluCool View Post
Nope I was just bored....lol



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post #5 of 7 Old 08-14-2011, 05:14 PM
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The compressor will do that when it doesn't have enough freon in it. Charge it to about 50psi and you should hear it run correctly. I would also recommend getting the high millage leak stop freon. What you described sounded like a normal compressor that is low on charge.
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-14-2011, 10:05 PM
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The compressor will do that when it doesn't have enough freon in it. Charge it to about 50psi and you should hear it run correctly. I would also recommend getting the high millage leak stop freon. What you described sounded like a normal compressor that is low on charge.
cars have not ran "freon" since the 80's....it is illegal to buy in the US without the proper license fyi. (we use R-134a as standard now)


u have a leak and dispite what (stop leak) crap goes in it will eventually leak out, they sell the leak detector kit that shops use all u need is a black light and to pressurize the system. worse leak to find is on the evaporator core which is within the HVAC unit behind the dash

Last edited by DRAGN94; 08-14-2011 at 10:07 PM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-15-2011, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DRAGN94 View Post
cars have not ran "freon" since the 80's....it is illegal to buy in the US without the proper license fyi. (we use R-134a as standard now)


u have a leak and dispite what (stop leak) crap goes in it will eventually leak out, they sell the leak detector kit that shops use all u need is a black light and to pressurize the system. worse leak to find is on the evaporator core which is within the HVAC unit behind the dash

Yes, I know, but it gets the point across, and most people still call it freon. The old R-12 is no longer used. Oh and yes the stop leak will still leak out at a rate of about a can a year. Ergo, $17 once a year or several hundred dollars to over a grand to fix most leaks.
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