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post #1 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for suggestions

Ok, here's my issue. I had my truck lowered about a year ago, the guy used "Chassis tech" parts. I went with coils in the front and blocks in the rear to get a 2/3 drop. Oh and all new shocks too. Basically the truck rides like shit, I've had a couple of other lowered vehicles (isuzu pup & astro van) and this rides worse then anything before. I'm wondering if it's because he used the Chassis Tech shit. I'm contemplating yanking out the blocks and ordering some belltech leafsprings and then also replacing the springs in front with a better quality spring, probably belltech. What do ya'll think, what setups have ya'll used to get a decent ride? Has anyone else here used the belltech leafs and if so how do youlike them? Yes, I would love togo with a 4 link rearend and airbags all the way around but thats thousands of dollars that I just don't have.
Can anyone help me out here, thanks in advance.


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post #2 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 12:28 PM
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it's not just chassis tech, but the blocks and coils alone would hurt your ride quality, i'd go with the leafs and control arms in the front


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post #3 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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it's not just chassis tech, but the blocks and coils alone would hurt your ride quality, i'd go with the leafs and control arms in the front
Thanks batman, so go with the control arms up front and put the stock springs back in right.


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post #4 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Taz_FL View Post
Thanks batman, so go with the control arms up front and put the stock springs back in right.
the stock springs would work, otherwise you'd get a massive drop,
i think DJM makes control arms that keep the factory steering geometry when used with the factory springs


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post #5 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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the stock springs would work, otherwise you'd get a massive drop,
i think DJM makes control arms that keep the factory steering geometry when used with the factory springs
Right, thats what i thought, if I used a 2" dropped control arms and then use springs that are made to lower the front 2" I would end up with a 4" drop.


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post #6 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 01:06 PM
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Right, thats what i thought, if I used a 2" dropped control arms and then use springs that are made to lower the front 2" I would end up with a 4" drop.
for that much you mighta s well bag it


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post #7 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 03:58 PM
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Not to steal your thread, but I have hotchkis 2" springs and 3" leafs. If I get 2" control arms for the front and 2" blocks for the rear will this work? Would that give me a 4/5? and one more question will I need a C-notch?


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now why did you go taking the dash out? did you paint it??
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Nope I was just bored....lol



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post #8 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 04:50 PM
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i use DJM's 3/5 drop w/ the a-arms and shackle kit rode like factory except for a little botteming out in the rear! rides like sh*t now w/ the 22's


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2004 STAMPEDE RC 4.7 ,545RFE, HELIX THROTTLE BODY SPACER, Stage 2 JET chip, 3.92 Limited rearend, CAI, 1 Chamber Race Flowmaster, Deleted Clutch Fan





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post #9 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CluCool View Post
Not to steal your thread, but I have hotchkis 2" springs and 3" leafs. If I get 2" control arms for the front and 2" blocks for the rear will this work? Would that give me a 4/5? and one more question will I need a C-notch?
I would say "Yes" that would give you a 4/5 drop, as far as a C-Notch, I would think you would definitly want to do a c-notch.


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post #10 of 11 Old 02-05-2008, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CluCool View Post
Not to steal your thread, but I have hotchkis 2" springs and 3" leafs. If I get 2" control arms for the front and 2" blocks for the rear will this work? Would that give me a 4/5? and one more question will I need a C-notch?
you wouldn't need a notch, but if you don't want to keep hammering your axle on your frame i'd go with a small notch,
you could even get away with just notching your frame without a bridge


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