Dodge Dakota Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im wanting to lift my 2004 dodge Dakota slt club cab about 2" for now until I get a bodylift as well. im planning on a 2" lift block in the rear and cranking the tbars a bit in the front, im not too worried about it being level because I like the factory rake look. should the 2" blocks in the rear be flat of tapered? I just don't want to run into any driveline problems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
I've got 3 inch blocks and no shims and I'm running fine but the torsion keys aren't gonna lift it much with those your only looking at 1/2-1" lift maybe
 

·
Gen2 help hotline
Joined
·
5,611 Posts
running fine and running the correct way are to different things...true driveline angle equals zero. that's the difference measured between the trans output and the pinion angle..4in drop on a dak changes diff angle about 2.5deg just to give u an idea (it'll run smooth but at high way speed there is when the u-joints overheat bcause they are in a bind)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
O well exploding you joints are fun... O wait no there not... Never the less I've been running it that way for about 4 months with just about everyday on the freeway and it doesn't even rattle so it's fine
 

·
Gen2 help hotline
Joined
·
5,611 Posts
yea just keep an eye on them. at work on the dynos we paint the caps of the u-joints in yellow. if ther start to bind they get hot and melt the paint. just a simple little trick to keep an eye out for poor lubrication and over heating
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
No it's probably always a good idea. Plus it's cheaper to buy those over spending money on new u joints all the time. I know going back on what I said but dragon94 makes some good points
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Well this was takein care of a month ago but ok also dont go aluminum blocks the suck ass and the centering bolt will shear off bottom line... JUNK!!!!!!!!!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top