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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think I jumped the gun when I baught this kit. It's the 3" control arms / 5" shackles-hangers DJM drop.

I'm running 275/45/20 tires with a 20x9 rim.

DodgeDakotas.com was zero-to-none on the help. I heard this is the best site to ask so I'm asking....

Are my friggin' tires going to be able to move with a 3/5 drop with 275/45/20 tires!?!

I know for a fact I will need to chop up the fender wells up front, thats no biggie. Anything else I might need so my truck doesn't expload???
 

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Well, Being the impatient person I am, I will just install it and see what happens from there.

I'll post pics when its on there, then pics after it totally shredded my tires and i flipped into the lake.
 

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my 265 wide tires on 20" wheels and a 2-4 drop didnt rub anything. dont know what the extra inch and 10mm will do but thats the best I can tell you. If it doesnt work out, I have a 2-4 drop for sale.
later, $$$costlydakota$$$
 

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What kind of 2/4 is it? I really want to stick with arms, shackles, and hangers. If this doesn't work out, I'll buy yours.
 

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Ah, that would be my last resort(blocks)

If the arms get in the way as much as i hear they do, i will get the shocks off of you.

My kit should be here Thursday, and installed Friday.

Pics comming soon!(even if the truck doesnt move, damnit)
 

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DJM arms suck. I snapped mine but it was bagged on them. Without doing anything to the djm arms, you will have about half as much steering as before. Its ridiculous and THE stupidest design EVER! There is a lil tab on teh back of the control arms that you can pretty much cut off and gain your steering back. I had that same kit on my truck with the stock 29" tall tire which is about teh same as your tire. Back was fine, front had to bang the fenders up a bit. and put a gigantic bump stop in to minimize the rubbing. After that it rubbed on very few occations. the DJM arms are alot widder than stock so you will be fine on those tires with that drop. Hope that helps
 

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Actually, thats the most useful info that I have gotten in the 2 weeks I've been asking. Thank you very much man.

First thing I'm going to do when i get them out of the box is grind that useless tab, I think they put it there to piss us off in the first place.

I'm tearing out my facotry fender wells and making some new ones that will sit further back, and higher up. The only thing I really need to know now is what bump stops should I use and should I use them on the front and back. Also, I might need to c-notch so thats another thing.
 

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I went to www.summitracing.com and found their tallest bumpstop. I beleive it was about 2 1/2" tall. That helped minimulize the rubbing alot. The bumpstops they give you would only touch if you were ridding 13's with lo pros. I cant say how stupid these guys at djm are.... You only need those bumpstops in the front. The ones they give you work perfectly fine in the back with no C- Notch needed. I drove for about a week with those tabs on just cause i didnt have the time to grind them off..... i could bearly turn into driveways and crap like that, pissed me off so bad that i would pay that much for something with the STUPIDEST little design flaw ever.
 

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LOL, you are not the first to say that about the arms. But I hear after the gay ass tabs are gone it's all good from there turning wise.

So yea, 2 1/2" bump stops are a must, and the c-notch is a no go, good to hear.

Again, thank you for the info.

Aslo, would that tall bump stop be like, a few centimeters away from hitting all the time, which would result in a horrible ride? Well, I geuss that would be better than shredding tires.
 
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