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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm still new to airbags so i'm going to ask a dumb question, whats the differance between a 3 link, 4 link, and a watts link, whats better? i plan on haveing FBSS and doing plenty of scrapen so what would be the best choice? B)
 

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Well my 03 4.7 5spd has a two piece driveshaft. I think all the autos came with one piece units. You might have a clearance issue around the rear of the cab. Not trying to scare you just give you something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks, i'll check on it,it seems the more i learn and the better things start to look somthing else pops up that has to be changed.is yours a QC?
 

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Ya, check out the gallery. I have some pics when the front was done. lwqcdak also has some good pics in his album. That is one of the things I hated when I started looking into bagging, not alot of pics floating around of actual components (brackets mounts and so on). lwqcdak was cool and answered any questions I had plus he has some good pics of his setup.
 

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This is my first minitruck so i'm still learning to. Please correct me if i'm wrong.

Not familiar with a three link
From what I understand, two forward bars on on each side and a wish bone in the center. If done right you can put the bags on the forward bars if setup right. Bags on the bars is the way to go!

4link several styles!
Triangulated 4-link-
Most popular a little more costly due to clearance issues. Lots of debate over which way to run the bars. Personally forward is the best. Run into clearance problems with gas tank, exhaust, ect. The main advantage is from what I understand rides exellent, no side movement of the axle.
Parallel 4-link-
This is currently what I have on my truck pretty simple installation goes on outside of frame rails to the axle. Two bars per side parallel with each other. Doesnt interfere with gas tank or exhaust or whatever! Disadvantage is you also MUST run a panhard bar with it. Due to the design of the panhard bar is will move your axle side to side a little during travel of your suspension. Will make it harder to tuck bigger wheels in the fenders.
Within a week already wanting to ger rid of panhard bar. I now ordered a WATTS LINK. Very pricey like 538 after shipping. This is going to replace your panhard bar. It's different design has a center pivot point wich keeps the axle completely center throughout the suspension travel. I really hope its worth the money i'll let you know.

Unfortunately that's about as far as my knowlege goes, so anybody else please list some of the other setups and post the advantages disadvantages and complications you may run into when trying to install them.

I have a 98 5.2 automatic and it does have the 2 peice drive shaft. Have not had any complication yet with it hitting the cab. But i am also not laying frame. YET
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yea mine is a one peice driveshaft, thanks for the info nate, if anyone else has more info it would be great. i think i am going to go with the Parallel 4-link from suicide doors, but what i was wondering was, is the watts link something that i add to a 4-link or use in its place, i know u said it replaces the panhard bar................please help, i want to bag it buy june and need somemore answers so that i can order parts...thanks
 

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Im going with the parallel 4 link from suicidedoors also. The watts link is used with the 4link, its what keeps the axle centered side to side under the frame. Did some measuring tonight and gonna order 4 link bars and 2 canti bag bars also (like lwqcdaks setup) monday. Then Ill have all of my parts together.
 

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Parallel four link you have to have a panhard bar. The parallel four link has two bars on each side that run from the axle to the frame. A panhard bar is a bar that runs almost parallel with your axle, actually at a slight angle. You got to have it but the problem with it is it moves the axle side to side during travel. A watts link replaces the panhard bar. To see a parallel four link check out lwqcdak photo gallery. I believe he has one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i want to order mt bars soon but how do i measure for them?
 

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Ill start by saying there are probably better ways to do this but this is what I used.

1st I called Jason at suicidedoors and got the dimensions of the front bracket and the rear bracket. then I made some templates at work to simulate them. I measured back from the rear body mount to where I wanted the front bracket centered (making sure to give me a little leway for axle positioning if I need it). Installed the rear bracket behind the axle and tied a string from the bottom hole of it to the bottom hole of the front one. Made sure both brackets were perpendicular to the ground and did the string thing to the top. Measured and that is how I did it. Nothing high tech, but it works. Did the same thing behind the axle for the bag bars. Hope i didnt confuse you. Ill take a pic of the templates and put them in my gallery in a day or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
it is a little confusing, if u could can u set up the strings on ur truck the way u explained and send me a pic of that so that i can get a better idea of how to do it, iknow its a lot to ask for but i learn from pics alot quiker, the pics of the templates would be a big help to, thanks
 

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1st off, on a parellel 4 link, upper and lower bars should be exactly the same length. Idealy if you dont want to mess with gas tank, exahust and stuff like that you want to go with a parellel 4 link with a watts link. I hated the panhard rod that was on my truck. way too much movement side to side. The longer the panhard rod is, the less movement. Mine was as long as you could make it period. My 4 link was a KP Components 4 link. I dont know if it was made specificly to a certain length or its just their weld on parellel 4 link. As for bags on that, would recomend doing the "canti" bars soyou can have the bags on the link. My truck was over the axle and rode like complete crap. If you want to completely lay out the rear of a quad cab you need to go to a 2 piece drivesaft. I went though (almost snapped in half) my stock driveshaft and then got a 2" smaller diamater steel drivesaft and it was still rubbing and i was about an inch from laying frame. My truck has been all re done and i should have it back sunday. Its now body dropped over a new frame that has a triangulated 4 link with a fuel cell in back. If you have any questions or anything feel free to email me at [email protected] or AIM Baggeddak
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
what if i go to a smaller drive shaft and notch my cab so that it can go into it without rubbing...would that work? or would i have to cut out to much of the cab for it to be worht it?
 

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Its not just the cab. Is the Gas tank X member and the back of the cab. Im on a 245/35/20 tire and to lay out the drivesaft would have came into the cab a bit. Its a smaller drivesaft as well. My gas tank x memeber was raised an inch and back lip of the cab was cut to the floor of the cab. Thats about all you can do. If your going 18's in back you could probably clear everyting if you raise the tank x member and cut out the lip on the cab. If you can run a fuel cell or something behind the axle and then tub out a bit in the cab you will be fine, but that way is alot of work. Or you could jsut go 18's in the back with a lo pro tire.....
 
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sounds like fun, what size drive shaft did u go with?
i thought about going with 18's but i think 20's is the smallest i'll go, i wanted 22's but its to much work for me to do right now to get them to tuck and to lay out flat
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sry i had forgot to sign in last night, had a long day at work
 

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i believe it was a 3" diamater drive shaft. The stock is like 5" i think. you can lay the x member under the fuel tank with a smaller drivesaft and a little cutting of the upper gas tank x member. But who watns to do that???? hahaha. if you want to go 22's 2 piece is the only way to go. With 20's only way to keep the 1 piece and lay is if you get ride of the gas tank. If you do that, id say the drivesaft would come in the cab about an inch to an inch and a half at the VERY rear of the cab. That isnt too hard to take care of tho. I dont know if its legal to run a fuel cell in your state or what but with mine now being body droped, the shop made an aluminum fuel tank using the stock sending unit, stock filler neck and all that stuff so that i will pass smog and then it is going under my bed in the rear of the truck. You go with something like that then you can get rid of the gas tank x member and stick with a 1 piece drivesaft. You could even keep the stock one although i think it would be better if you went to a smaller steel one so you dont have to cut the hell outta the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thanks thats some good info i was needing to know.........................
 
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