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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been spending a lot more time on this site checking out the sick suspension builds. I am currently working on bagging my 99 R/T and am looking for a little guidance.

I am bagging my R/T using all Air Ride Technologies parts. I am currently running 17" R/T wheels and will be running 20" R/T wheels as soon as I buy tires.

Up front I am using DJM 3" drop lower control arms from my static drop and shockwaves. The front will lay out now but sits on my downpipe from my PPH headers before airing all the way out. I may also need to remove some inner fender in the future.

Out back I am using a parallel 4 link, tapered sleeve bags, and ART ride pro E3 system with 2 three gallon tanks and 2 compressors. I have a mild c notch from my static drop and am trying to keep my rear swaybar. I am considering putting in the fuel cell from my other dak.

Right now I am waiting to weld up the 4 link brackets. Everything is strippped and prepped. I am still determining best way to mount panhard bar and how to get shorter swaybar endlinks.

Any help, ideas, criticism, questions, etc. is appreciated.
 

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the sleeve bags are nice and stiff fyi, you'll probably like em especially if you wanna keep sway's. heads up with the parallel link and panhard most of the ART stuff is made for autocross not laying out. (not sure what your plan is) but the panhard will bind if you lay on big wheel. just something to look into.

also another option for the ride management is "accuair" alot better PC controlled system compaired to the ART stuff. just a thought since by the looks your doin the whole expensive but good quality ride setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right now with the c-notch sitting on the axle, the low part of the frame is about 2" off the ground. I've been contemplating replacing the c-notch with a step notch so I could lay completely out, but then oviously would have to cut up the bed floor.

This truck sees time at the drag strip and will get beat through hard corners, so I think I went with the right setup. With the 20" r/t wheels I will have very tight clearance between wheel and bedside when aired out. How much side to side movement should I expect with the panhard bar?

Wolf, I like that panhard setup, but I would have to cut the bed floor to get that to work.
 

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side to side travel is gonna depend on bar length, angle and amount of suspension travel up and down
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There will be only about 3-4" from ride height to aired out. I am under the understanding that the longer the bar and the more parallel the bar to the axle, the less the side to side movement.
 

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just build a watts link. keeps center with no bind and can be mounted lower than a panhard. plus better for corners IMO

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I really like the idea of the Watts link. The problem I am running into is my clearances between panhard, shocks, sway bar, and exhaust.
 

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well you can talk to my buddy if you need. (michigan metal workss) he makes and sell them to what you need



/\that kit is for a 05+ dodge ram

only thing that suck is you'll have to messege him through myspace since the site is down
Michigan Metal (Michigan Metal Works) | MySpace

just tell him you talked to me and tell him what your looking for (also he can CAD draw it so all you have to do is weld the tabs and bolt on)
 

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does the watts link stop the axle from moving side to side when you lift from your ride hight??
 

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yes and it doesn't deflect it like a panhard bar does.the axle stays centered thru its range of motion
 

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maybe this will help show how it stays centered, it will shift if you have massive lift but it takes alot to max out a properly built watts

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Digging this thread up from the dead. The truck has been back together for about a year, but has been a driveway queen due to work and move etc.

I am trying to rush for a 2 week push to get the truck to Slamology in Indy, and have a few questions.

I put on a set of 20x8.5 Torq Thrust II wheels on 255/35/20 rubber. I am still ok with clearance out back, but now am going to have to cut some inner fender/fender to get the front to lay out as much as it did before on the shorter tires. You guys have any pointers as to the best approach to cutting clearance for tires up front?

The battery is already in the bed, and I want to keep as much material up front for protection as I can because this truck will see run and road miles etc.

Oh, and I will have to get some pics of the build progress and semi finished results up.
 

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just move the tire up, mark then cut. then check again and cut some more. with these tires you might what to look into tubbing the firewall
 
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