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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so....the dodge dakota plague...lack of aftermarket wheel support (among other things)
my 97 dak with 20x8.5 boss 315's and 12mm of backspacing dont fit. they stick out about an inch and a half on each side.
heres my most recent idea
according to my research heres what i found, s10 axles when measured from WMS to WMS(wheel mounting surface) are
55in wide for 2wd
59in for 4wd
63in for the zr2 off road package.

my dak measures in at 64 3/4in wide.
so im thinking if i scrounge a 4wd axle from a dime and have the bolt pattern changed, i should be able to pull my wheels in a total of 5 3/4 inches which should be more than enough to tuck inside the fenders and maybe clear the body line should i decide to upgrade to 22's in the rear

also im anxious to figure out how/if i can get my factory driveshaft to meet up with the chevy axle.

this seems like a more financially sound plan then shortening the factory dodge axle, ive priced custom cut axles out at 400-500ish then whatever it would cost to have the housing shortened.

has anyone done this, heard of anyone doing this, or even thought about this. i cant afford new wheels so that option is out. i got the wheels already, and im gonna make em work..........somehow

let me know what you think of this idea
 

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CDOM March 2009
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to me it sounds like more work, and more $$$.
first id recommend contacting Moser Engineering and find their price. btw cheapest narrow will be a 6"(only one axle will have to be purchased, short one gets flipped to other side)

then id start planning $$$ and time to convert the chevy axle. i.e. how to convert the lug pattern, what rotors/ drum to use, calipers, etc.
just my $0.02

and i had the same idea before, but only cuz my dad talked about swapping his mustang axle and his would give me disk brakes, LSD, 5 lug, and higher gear ratio.(dasically all the mods i am kinda looking at) and best of all it would be free vs. the 03-04 dak axle i want to buy
on a side note( i dont feel like searching) howd you get the fronts to tuck?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
heres what im thinking, im in pennsylvania, 4wd's are abundant around here. and i figure i can find an s10 axle for about $100 (maybe not the greatest condition but whatever s10s are abundant and cheap i should be able to find a decent axle pretty easy)
my thoughts on brakes are if the backing plates arent the same from the chevy to the dodge im confident i could make a good square cut and swap the dodge backing plates to the new chevy axle. then run all the stock running gear.

time isnt a problem since the trucks been basically a basket case since i came back from deployment in the beginning of 08.

as far as the front tucking i am running chassis tech upper and lower c arms that have been pushed back pretty far in their alignment holes. also i cut the inner lip off of the front fenders and hammered them flat. so basically my iner fender lip is only 2 pieces of sheet metal wide. that and i mighta pulled out on em a little. it still barely clears though. if that doesnt make sense i can get you a pic.

i appreciate the input klintok, i auctually havent thought about the brakes till you mentioned it
 

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Just do what i did, I cut 3" out of the long side and bought a passenger side axle from the wreckers. Then just re-center the axle. Whole axle chop cost me $100
 

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Just do what i did, I cut 3" out of the long side and bought a passenger side axle from the wreckers. Then just re-center the axle. Whole axle chop cost me $100
Did you center the axle back up by the wheel mounting surfaces? Any problems with the center carrier being out of center from the normal drive shaft line when you did that?

I know a lot of people have shortened their axle tubes but I was under the impression that the long tube was shortened 3" then a passenger side axle was used for that. The short side would be narrowed 3" as well but a new axle would have to be made.

But heh, if the method you used works, it's certainly a lot cheaper.
 

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Ya, did it all myself. I was a fitter for 5 years so not worried about welding it and i did 3" overall but thats more then i needed.

Only problem I had with moving the axle over was I had to re-do my drive shaft tunnel but no problems with vibration or anything

Just make sure you make alot of alignment marks and keep the axle square. I ended up putting a piece of 3" od tube about a foot and a half long into the axle to keep it straight
 

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i've done that same research on the zr2 axles thought about it couple years back...threw it out the window cuz its s-10 garbage

issue you'd have with that is a chevy is 5x5 bolt pattern..the front will have to be the same...or use a dana 60 (mopar) which came with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern plus the u-joint should be the same size. just another option

also moser can shorten your axle for couple hundred and its like a 3 day turnaround

just a thought
 

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mosier engineering in Ind shortened my housing for $125.00 and the new axles were $110.00 ea. total cost, $345.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
altaboy, what your saying is, correct me if im wrong...

narrow the housing 3 inches on both sides
factory passenger side axle becomes the new drivers side
have a custom axle made for the new passenger side thats 6 inches shorter

all this makes for an overall 6 inch chop

has anyone done exactly this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so i just talked to moser, and to have the one axle made is $180

thats fantastic, i think i found my solution.
 

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altaboy, what your saying is, correct me if im wrong...

narrow the housing 3 inches on both sides
factory passenger side axle becomes the new drivers side
have a custom axle made for the new passenger side thats 6 inches shorter

all this makes for an overall 6 inch chop

has anyone done exactly this?
Close. :D

3" cut from the axle tubes on each side for an overall shortening of the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface of 6". The factory pass side axle becomes the new driver's side is correct. The pass side axle has to be manufactured and be 3" shorter than the stock one. Not 6" shorter.

But yeah, this will keep the carrier centered and your axle will be 6" shorter. Only one axle has to be made as opposed to two so there are some cost savings. Shortie's idea sounded pretty good too but there was some additional work that needed to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i guess i was trying to say once you swap the passenger axle to the driver side your left with the drivers side in your hand which is 6 inches longer than the one you need to have made.

or maybe i cant add, i donno

so whats the best way to cut and align the axle tubes together after before welding. ive seen jigs that fit through the axle and get held in by the carrier bearing mounts, that have conical ends that center the end of the axles together.

pics of anyones experiences doing this would be great
 

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if your gonna cut it yourself take a piece of paper, cut it 3" and wrap it around the axle tube, this will give you a nice straight cut.

When you go to weld it back up sleve the inside with some tube that fits snug inside the tube. You can also stitch plates every quarter of the axle tube to give you something to hold the axle tube straight
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
shortie you got any pics from when you did it?
 

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CDOM March 2009
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as far as the front tucking i am running chassis tech upper and lower c arms that have been pushed back pretty far in their alignment holes. also i cut the inner lip off of the front fenders and hammered them flat. so basically my iner fender lip is only 2 pieces of sheet metal wide. that and i mighta pulled out on em a little. it still barely clears though. if that doesnt make sense i can get you a pic.
ok thanks it just looks like your wheels are far in. they dont stick out past the fender when aired up do they?
cuz i cut and hammered my fender and its barely tucking(maybe a 1/4") but my front doesnt lay out yet either. plus when aired up the tire stick out beyond the fender.makes it look like a jeep.
oh and that makes perfect sense. ive done that one t diff. fenders now...soon to be two more
didnt mean to jack the thread...sorry
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
klintok i put some pics up of how far my wheels stick out
 

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CDOM March 2009
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sweet thnx. from what i remember thats a bit better than mine. i just cant stand the look myself so for now ill have flares still
 
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