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Super Mod
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok i really need to know on what type dak has the best clearance between the cab floor and the drive shaft. would a CC cab have better clearance than a QC? They would both be auto with wither a 4.7 or 5.9. i really need to know soon if on e has more clearance than the other or if it will be the same. TIA for any help
 

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i had clearance issues with my club cab i think reg cabs have the best drivsshaft clearance
 

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If they are both autos, then either body style will probably have a one piece driveshaft and have some clearence issues. Mostly with that lip that hangs down on the back of the cab. Kindof where the floor meets the back wall and its pinched together.
 

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Super Mod
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If they are both autos, then either body style will probably have a one piece driveshaft and have some clearence issues. Mostly with that lip that hangs down on the back of the cab. Kindof where the floor meets the back wall and its pinched together.
alright good to know thanks guys
 

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i know a drive shaft shop near my old house in maryland and they made a two piece driveshaft that worked great it uses a s10 carrier bearing and i had to fab a carrier bearing mount and it has workout great now when i do my custom chassis for the stock floor body drop i will use the custome drive shaft because it is powder coated intense blue metallic to match the graphics i want
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i know a drive shaft shop near my old house in maryland and they made a two piece driveshaft that worked great it uses a s10 carrier bearing and i had to fab a carrier bearing mount and it has workout great now when i do my custom chassis for the stock floor body drop i will use the custome drive shaft because it is powder coated intense blue metallic to match the graphics i want
so would i still need to notch my cab with something like this....or would it get rid of that proablem.....i am only trying to lay frame
 

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well this will work with out notching the cab because the carrier bearing can be mounted just after the cab ends and this will solve your problem. this is the nicest way of doing this with out cutting the rear cab wall or the cab floor for clearance
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Here is a picture of Kaotic Dakotas truck during the bag install. Killer Ridez did his install. He has a 4.7 auto (one piece shaft) quadcab.
is that all that is needed to be notched.....i thought more was necessary:confused:
well this will work with out notching the cab because the carrier bearing can be mounted just after the cab ends and this will solve your problem. this is the nicest way of doing this with out cutting the rear cab wall or the cab floor for clearance
sweet, do you have any pics of the drive shaft or of it installed? also what is the name of the shop and where is it located in MD. How much was the new drive shaft? and how hard was it to fab a carrier baring mount?
 

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Well he laid frame, so that was all that was needed (Im guessing). If he was running a larger diameter tire then he would have to cut more because the rearend would be higher off the ground. As for the carrier bearing crossmember I was going to use some 2x2 1/4" wall square tubing that way I could mount it between the frame rails and have plenty of room. Similar to Lowqcdak's truck after the bodydrop (see picture below).
 

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Here is a picture of Kaotic Dakotas truck during the bag install. Killer Ridez did his install. He has a 4.7 auto (one piece shaft) quadcab.
Thats not my truck and I did my own Install.....An i have a Club cab. and my truck is black......if you really wanna worry about clearance pick up a 2 piece drive shaft and have the yoke made to work.
 

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Thats not my truck and I did my own Install.....An i have a Club cab. and my truck is black......if you really wanna worry about clearance pick up a 2 piece drive shaft and have the yoke made to work.
Im sorry, after you said that I went back and looked. His username is Dakota Outlaw, member of outlandish customs. Sorry for the mix-up, your is nicer though....
 

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Im sorry, after you said that I went back and looked. His username is Dakota Outlaw, member of outlandish customs. Sorry for the mix-up, your is nicer though....
;-) thanks....i may actually start workin on it again...anyone need a 4.7 with auto trans? Or a narrowed Rear end?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
;-) thanks....i may actually start workin on it again...anyone need a 4.7 with auto trans? Or a narrowed Rear end?
specs and price on the rear end?????? and how much you want, and are you willing to take a stock rear end plus cash. Oh and i am very interested
 

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No i'm going to be shoving a IRS in there.

its Narrowed 13" by moser and has Canti-tri-4link brackets on there.
 

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Still deciding now....its up in the air now because pops wants me to put a carb'd Mopar BB....and a IRS won't be able to hold that kind of power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Still deciding now....its up in the air now because pops wants me to put a carb'd Mopar BB....and a IRS won't be able to hold that kind of power.
its all good man....either way you go it sounds like you will have one sweet ass dak :D I am mainly looking for a new/smaller drive shaft right now anyways, so i wouldnt even have any $ for the narrowed rear unless it was cheap
 

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its all good man....either way you go it sounds like you will have one sweet ass dak :D I am mainly looking for a new/smaller drive shaft right now anyways, so i wouldnt even have any $ for the narrowed rear unless it was cheap
Check out like 95 toyota pick up they have a 2 piece drive shaft (at least the ext'd cab does) just take it to a drive shaft shop and have it made to work ...fab up a carrier bearing cross memeber and you won't have to worry about much.
 
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