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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided this winter I'm gonna remove my 3/5 drop and install a bagged air ride system. There are a lot of variables and I'm not educated totally in all the aspects of installing a system. Compressor, valves, tank, switches, gauges, air lines and wiring I can do. A fully wired air comp system with lines to each corner is no problem. It's the parts requirements for things such as bags, bag cups, rear bridges and rear link systems I'm a little hazy on. I've visited sites and looked over their stuff but I'm lost as to what I should specifically purchase. A lot of you guys have done this 10 times over and know your shit. Can someone give me some direction?

One other thing ... Any thoughts on this system? complete air ride system
 

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nice peter looks like we will both have our trucks on air by next spring
you doing the rear end yourself or getting a shop to do it?
 

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Captain Cobalt
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You need to decide what you want out of it, For the front you will need cups, wether you run stock a arms or tubular lowers or full tubular will determine if you need to use a lower cup or not. I would suggest drilling a hole in the side of your upper cup and grommet it to run your airline thru your frame. If you dont do this your line will come out the top of the frame and your exhaust manifold will make contact when you lay out. Run slam specialties bag, most use the 7 inch up front because you have to cut the piss out of your frame for clearance and the firestone ballon and rub. I use 3/8 valves and wish I had 1/2. You can slow a valve down but you cant speed it up. 1/2 valves w/ 1/2 line should be plenty fast. I would run a 10 or 12 gal tank w 2 compressors, you will need to decide 150 psi or 200. The difference is speed. Plan on buying new upper and lower ball joints, trust me its better to replace them now. Once you start popping up and down you will wear old ones out pretty quick. Ive only done the front of mine. So the back is up to you again what do you want? simple up and down? do you want to hits sides without binding up? The options are endless. At the least you will need a c notch, and the inevitable narrowing of the rearend, beyond that some one else will have to chime in.
 

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Captain Cobalt
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I have always ordered from Suicide doors, good products and AWESOME customer service. They know their shit. I have ordered from them at least a dozen times and had NO problems.
 

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in there rear the simple trianglated 4 link or a wish bone three link with bags over the axle are the best bet. keep the links as long as possibe for less arc an will help keep the wheels centered in the wheel well. i sujest keeping the links facing foward. reverse link set up will cuase wheel hop.
you will need a notch of your choice a simple 8" notch is common. then dpending on bag set up you can mount the bags on the links you can add 2 more links and build a 6 or 5 link set up wich will offer more lift and better ride. there sooo many options all depending on time and cash

also when your looking for bushings i highly reconmend super piviots at one end of the links. and urathan at the other.

the other thing to keep in mind is the largr the bag the better ride you get. i run RE8s in the rear and RE7s up front.

if you want more info feel free to pm me or ask anything i have more then 30 trucks i have built and each trucks been a lil diffrent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Well for starters I won't be going with a "balls to the wall" totally radical system. Upgrades can come later on a basic installed system. There are some issues with my truck as well. One being my 20x9's aren't gonna tuck into the fender wells due to the offset of the rim. I do have a mild bolt in c-notch over the rear axle that would give me additional room for getting lower however.

This is what I'm thinking ....

- Airbags up front using the stock upper and lower A-arms. Bag suggestions? Cups needed? Suggestions for relocating the shocks? Since my wheels won't tuck I was thinking I could just install a bump stop of some sort to limit the suspension travel until my tires come into contact with the fender lips.

- Simple 4 link or triangulated 4 link system for the rear Again, since my wheels won't tuck, but I do have a mild c-notch installed, I thinking low enough until the tires come in contact the fender lips. Could a "below and behind the axle" bag bracket system (with a cross brace between the frame) be installed relatively easy? Or would a "above the axle" system be better? Would I really require a bridge for a first time setup?

I understand the bigger bags, bigger valves, bigger air comp, bigger air line and reserve capacity on the tanks scenario. Makes perfect sense and I would probably opt for a few of those upgrades. Who the hell wants to switch out their valves, comp and lines when it could have been done right the first time.

But like I mentioned, I don't wanna go completely ape shit from the get-go by narrowing rear ends, cutting the box floor out, and switching control arms. That's just too much cash to lay out at one time.

Thanks for your help guys.
 

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We did my truck last winter in a few weekends, c'mon down and talk to us if you have questions, just a few mins south of you in Airdrie. Mine is a full weld on parallel 4 link, 3"drop lower control arms, and i know if a local guy for narrowing your rear axel too.
 

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Captain Cobalt
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I got the cool ride set up from ART, Cups bags and shocks w/ relocating brackets. Way to much money but if your running stock arm this is made for that. I am taking mine out soon and will post measurments for the upper and lower cups as well as pics. The nice thing bout airide is you dont have to go balls out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was looking at the Air Ride Tech stuff and yeah your right, insanely expensive for their cool ride or shock waves. Guess that's the price to pay for model specific and ease of installation parts. A complete setup from them, front and rear, would be close to 2G's not even including anything for the air management! If you could give me some measurements on those front cups that would be great.

Poking around suicidedoors, they have a shit load of S-10 stuff but not anything Dakota. That's why I get a little lost not knowing exactly what I should order for the bags and other stuff. I'll have to set aside a weekend to come down and look at your setup Calgaryguy. Guess for the time being I'll order my air management stuff (comp, tank, valves, etc.) and get that installed.
 

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Captain Cobalt
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You could have any fab shop or some one with a welder make you a set of cups for a fraction of the price. Like I said ill try to get some measurements.
 

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personally i would recomend drop arms in the front, if your not wanting to lay all the way out it will be very easy up front if you are wanting to lay out then you will need to cut out and relocate some stuff.
in back a simple weld on parralell 4 link with a pan hard bar would work fine and will lay pretty low using the bolt in c notch, and you wont have to worry about narrowing your rear-end.
A small compressor, tank, and 3/8s valves will work great for what your wanting out of it. and suicide doors has some great deals on complete setups
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You could have any fab shop or some one with a welder make you a set of cups for a fraction of the price. Like I said ill try to get some measurements.
No problem there. I have a fairly well stocked garage with a MIG welder and I know how to use it. I emailed suicide doors but haven't gotten a reply back yet. Guess the thing to do is give em a call and talk to a real person. Thanks again for all your input, knowledge and suggestions guys. You da best!
 

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Captain Cobalt
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Yeah Id call em, ill tell you baging my truck even just the front is the best mod. I get more enjoyment out of the adjustability and attention I get from the bags than anything else. Good luck with it cant wait to see the install.
 
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