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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
aiight guys I've decided im gonna bag my truck myself. So anyone that has some info...help me out...lol. Those of you that have bagged your truck yourself, what problems came up and what did you do to fix 'em???
 

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Super Mod
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Sweet glad to here your doing it your self. the main two problems i had was with headers and the 4.7L engine. there is no clearance, so the only fix is to run stock manifolds if you have the 4.7. Also depending on what rear setup you go with, you have to relocate the bracket for the ebrake. I still havent done mine yet, but as soon as i figure out how to do it i will le you know. Also the gas tank hangs down kinda low on some daks, so you either need to raise it or get a fuel cell. On some dakotas the "Y" pipe hangs below the frame, so you would need to relocate it so its above the frame. Oh and the biggest problem is the wheels, its a PITFA to find a set that tuck.
 

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Captain Cobalt
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I used airride cups on the front of mine. Be ready to cut the piss out of the frame, dont use firestone bags, they expand. Mine rubbed and blew. Use slams 7 in bag put a set on year ago and have had zero trouble. Youll need to drill a hole in your upper cup for the airline and run it thru the frame. I didnt and my airline was laying on my nice hot exhaust manifold when I dumped it. If you run 3/8 valves run 1/2 inch line. I ran 3/8 and got bored with it in about 2 weeks, had to redo it all. Take your time and use the best parts and do it right the first time. I have been back thru mine three times. Im still on stock a arms I can lay front bumper. (16's w/ 225/50/16). Havent done the rear yet so no advice there, these are just my humble opinions(as some who did all the work himself, learning by trial and error). By the way airride tech is overpriced in my opinion and there cust serv reps treated me like a 3 year old. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah the wheels are a pain...im gonna have to get a shortened back axel...and im probably gonna have to run major camber to tuck the front...if that'll even work...i might see if i can jus find some shortened c-arms
 

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Super Mod
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another option for front cuts would be a set of Chevy full size cups. They fit perfect, and ther alot ceaper than air ride. You stil hav to drill a hole in the side to run the line though. And also depending on what lower arms you use you have to treim the cups down a couple of inches
 

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Super Mod
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yeah the wheels are a pain...im gonna have to get a shortened back axel...and im probably gonna have to run major camber to tuck the front...if that'll even work...i might see if i can jus find some shortened c-arms
shortened arms are going to be a pain to find. i got a shop working on a set for me, and then there going to start selling them (going to be a while though) The front wont really be that hard to get the rims to tuck, i know a +40mm (and maybe less) will tuck. the bitch about upfront wil be cutting out the inner fender well and raising it up at least 2-3 inches (more depending on rim size) If you go with at least a 7" bs on a 9.5 wide rim, you wont need to narrow the axel you just need to trim the inner wheel well in the rear
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I'm runnin some 20 x 8.5's right now that im gonna tuck. I'm gonna be startin the body work soon to completely shavin the truck any advise on that would b great too
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the problem in the back is that my tires stick out about an inch past the rear tire well thats y im sayin i need a shortened axle
 

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Whore King
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When you start shaving and smoothin use www.candospecialties.com www.suicidedoors.com you can get stuff from fbi but it takes to long and they send the wrong stuff sometimes(hapend to me).If you shave the antenia your gonna have to make your own metal plate, and if you want some form of radio go with satilite or get the hidden antenia kit from www.autoloc.com .Also your gonna need alot of fiberglass filler.Good luck man and if you think of anything else tell me and i can probly help.dont no about shaved doors handles thow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
im gonna get a buyable set-up for now anyway...maybe in the future make a one of a kind set up when i know more bout what im doin...u know what i mean
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
whats the best way to go??? 4 link??? nd should i mount the bags behind axle or on ontop???
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
right on...thats what i thought
 

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Make sure you use a good four link for your rear, i suggest suicidedoors.com superlift. For narrowing the rear get in contact with moser engineering. with your rims you might be able to lay in your camber enough to get them to tuck, but thats a hit or miss thing. If you want to lay full frame you will need to Z the frame, or you will only be laying front cross member, and then you will for sure have to either raise or replace the gas tank. watch the exhaust, and make sure you don't cut it off right in front of the bag and blow all that hot air right at the bag. Finally make sure you get enough compressor for the tank you want to run, I got into that problem at first, to much air not enough compressor, fill times way to slow. sure I missed something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
coo thanks...yeah i was already looking at the superlift kit...what do u mean by z the frame???i definately wanna lay-out cause imma get a body drop nd lay rockers
 

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Whore King
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Dang thats gonna look sweet when its done but you got a long way ahead of you to do that.And i think what he means by z-ing the frame is cuting and ether shorting or extending the fram but i dont no.
 

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the way your factory frame sits your engine cross member will hit first and the rest of your frame will actually be a little off the ground. To fix this you cut the frame right in front of the fire wall, and let it fall the rest of the way to the ground. It will be off set with the front peice, yuo reweld the frame in the offset position, and I would then cap the openings left, and plate over the reattached pieces for reinforcement. you will most likely have to move a few other things for clearance like trans crossmember, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok...i get it now. Thanks
 

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When Z-ING the frame is it going to be necessary to raise transmission tunnel, and how much does it effect motor angle. What is the min. the front frame section needs to be raised, concerned about top of motor and hood clearance.
 
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