I was wondering where will be the best place to put the bags. How does over the axle ride? Or maybe behind the axle? What about on the links? I'm kinda looking for the most pratical/comfortable ride. What are some problems that happens with each set up? Any help would be great. Thanks
rear bag location?
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Over the axel rides like a #40 Grit condom. I'm puttin mine on the links as we speak.
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mine are on the links...rides pruddy damn good if you ask me!
If you run double convoluted bags, never run them on the axle. As stated above, they will always ride like crap. Run that style bag on the trailing arms (link bars).
If you want to run your bag on or behind the axle use a tapered sleeve bag. The load rating on those bags is appropriate for a 1:1 lift ratio.
If you want to run your bag on or behind the axle use a tapered sleeve bag. The load rating on those bags is appropriate for a 1:1 lift ratio.
Please do not run your top links reversed (to the rear). I know there are a ton of guys out there who will tell you this is fine. They will also tell you that running a two link solid mounted to your axle is just fine.
If you run your front bars forward and the top bars reversed the two directions work against each other. The lower bars want to swing the axle forward when you lift. The uppers want to swing it back. This can cause severe twisting of the axle and through your pinion angle WAY OFF. Your best bet is to find a method to run everything forward.
If you can not find a way to run a triangulated or wishbone link to mount your bags on the lower links, there are other options. You can run a parallel link forward and then do a third set of links toward the rear using dog bones to mount your bags on. This is essentially the same thing as KP does for the GM and Ford trucks. The other option is to just move the gas tank so you can run a normal triangulated link.
If you have any other questions, ask away.
If you run your front bars forward and the top bars reversed the two directions work against each other. The lower bars want to swing the axle forward when you lift. The uppers want to swing it back. This can cause severe twisting of the axle and through your pinion angle WAY OFF. Your best bet is to find a method to run everything forward.
If you can not find a way to run a triangulated or wishbone link to mount your bags on the lower links, there are other options. You can run a parallel link forward and then do a third set of links toward the rear using dog bones to mount your bags on. This is essentially the same thing as KP does for the GM and Ford trucks. The other option is to just move the gas tank so you can run a normal triangulated link.
If you have any other questions, ask away.
Ill have to go with RTon20s. Keep all links forward, just not safe. And as he stated like kp components does, the 6 link, i should be starting to convert my 4 link with bags over axle to a 6 link. Dont do a forward/reverse set up, trouble waiting to happen
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well, I plan on putting my bags on the links, but my question is where. Are you guys putting them in the middle, towards the front, or towards the back. Also, the instructions (yes, I decided to take a look at them) said to put the links on the outside of the frame rails. My concern is having room for the bag between the wheel and the frame rail. Or are you guys running your outer links inside the frame. Will be at the shop doing some measuring tonite. Thanks
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well like RTon20s has said, DO NOT, and i repeat DO NOT RUN HALF OF YOUR 4 LINK TO THE REAR! learned from my mistake. originally we built a canti 4 link for mine where i got +15" of lift out of the rear. the severe pinion rotation made my truck only drive-able for the lower half of the lift. locked up i could idle/cruise along at about 5 mph, but that was it. If and when you run all four bars to the front make sure that you have the same gap between the mounting positions of the 4 link on your axel, as you do as it's mounted on the frame. Both sets of hangers need the same amount of gap from top to bottom to insure the articulation of the axel matches the agle coming out of the tranny. if you have a two piece drive line like me, then you will go through carrier barings, and at 50 bux a pop, after awhile it gets old.
as to putting bags over the axel. i look at it like this, if 200 psi is locked up for your rear setup, and your only getting 6" of lift out of an over the axel setup, from 150 psi on it's gonna ride stiff and bust your kidneys. so you have to figure from about 60-80 psi (ride height) your truck is riding smoother, it takes the bumps a little easier. reason being, it has flex in the bag, the air has space to flex the rubber out and obsorb the bumps in the road. so you have to figure the first 3" of lift ride nice on an over the axel setup. Well, setup on a cantilever(bag on the link), it's multiplying the work load and the lift of the bag. there fore the range of the ride heighth 0-80 psi is doubled now, and it has slop in it to obsorb the bumps. Everyones setup is different, and we all have our "sweet spot" where it rides just the way we want it to, but the bags being over the axel shouldn't have anything to do w/ ride (in my opinion), it just has a smaller range of the "sweet spot". RTon20s is right tho, the sleve bags on a 1:1 ratio, does ride well in the rear, but i think that's because of the slack in the bag, obsorbing the bumps in the road. Now mind you, all of this is also dependant on all 4 shocks being good, and the bag setup being good, the link that the bags are mounted on should be rigid to reduce vibration in the ride. bag setups are only as good as the person installing them
as to putting bags over the axel. i look at it like this, if 200 psi is locked up for your rear setup, and your only getting 6" of lift out of an over the axel setup, from 150 psi on it's gonna ride stiff and bust your kidneys. so you have to figure from about 60-80 psi (ride height) your truck is riding smoother, it takes the bumps a little easier. reason being, it has flex in the bag, the air has space to flex the rubber out and obsorb the bumps in the road. so you have to figure the first 3" of lift ride nice on an over the axel setup. Well, setup on a cantilever(bag on the link), it's multiplying the work load and the lift of the bag. there fore the range of the ride heighth 0-80 psi is doubled now, and it has slop in it to obsorb the bumps. Everyones setup is different, and we all have our "sweet spot" where it rides just the way we want it to, but the bags being over the axel shouldn't have anything to do w/ ride (in my opinion), it just has a smaller range of the "sweet spot". RTon20s is right tho, the sleve bags on a 1:1 ratio, does ride well in the rear, but i think that's because of the slack in the bag, obsorbing the bumps in the road. Now mind you, all of this is also dependant on all 4 shocks being good, and the bag setup being good, the link that the bags are mounted on should be rigid to reduce vibration in the ride. bag setups are only as good as the person installing them
Correct me if I am wrong, but if you run your top 4 link bars backwards and then set your pinion halfway through the rearends range of travel, would'nt that leave you with something like 7 degrees of pinion angle from locked up to layed out to play with? That should let the axel go ahead and roll without putting too much stress oh the u-joints and carrier bearings.
I have my top bars reversed and my bags on the front bars. Never measured, but I definately have over 12 in. of lift and my pinion angle is perfect all the way through from locked up to laid out. Not sure but I think it has something to do with the length of the rear bars (they're long as fuck). Also I had my setup custom made by Brian Jendro himself at temecula rods and customs(he is the shit!)So it can be done, but you gotta know what your doing. !headbang
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my rear bars were 32" long for one. they were triangulated, and like i said, the first half of the lift was fine, but with the two piece driveline, my axel was still rotating too much, to drive it locked up. The two piece doesn't have as much play as the single drive line.
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225 Posts
Why can't you run a full forward 4 link 808? I just did. You have to cut off the second crossmember from the cab, and you'll lose two bed mounts, but you've got 8 any damn ways. It is a lot of work, and you have to make the frame strong as hell, but it is worth it. The only fucked up thing is, unless you have a fuel cell, or a shortened gas tank, you'll have to put your gas tank in the bed. I'll be soon posting some pics up. It ain't pretty, but since our frames are pretty weak, there was no way to make it pretty.
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<----drug through 4 gas tanks, and because i have no "hook up" on them, they each cost me 450 bux. Trust me, it's not worth buying new ones, just raise it or move it.
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