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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, it's time to replace the upper control arm bushings AGAIN! This will be the 3rd set for the pass side and 2nd for the drivers side. Only have 112K, no off road, avoid pot holes etc, just find it hard to believe these things get trashed so fast. Any ideas as to what causes them to fall apart?

Would like to save some money and replace this time myself. Are there any aftermarket bushings that will hold up better than the OEMs? Front is all stock :>( and have just dropped a bundle into brake upgrades front/rear. How difficult is it to replace these? Is a mandrel press needed or any non-DIY tools?

Thanks for any help!

98 ext cab, 2wd, 3.9, K&N, EBC YellowStuff pads, S&P Diamond slot rotors, New calipers and complete new rear brake components.
 

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Whore King
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Yea i know it sounds wierd but i had to take a class in my autocollision program about auto mechanics and thats what they said to do_O and bty its a special grease like oil they put in there,it keeps the bushings soft so they last.
 

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Captain Cobalt
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You have to grease them with a grease gun. There should be "Zerks" on your upper and lower arms. If not when you put the new one in baste them with grease. I believe its called lithium grease or white grease. Someone correct me if im wrong. This should keep the bushings from binding and degrading so fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hmmmmmmm. I'll look for a zerk the next time I'm in there. Never saw one before, but it would be nice if they had said something about keeping them lubed. Has anyone ever found a better bushing than the stock OEM ones?

oodakota: Do you remember from your class, how much of a pain these are to change out? Any special tools needed?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Have found a couple of sources & ebay. Will probably go with Summit Racing as they have the best price and the red ones are in-stock. They come as a kit for both sides upper & lower which is the only way to go.

Did find out they need either silicone grease or bushing grease w/teflon. No zerk fittings, just smear them up really well at install.

Thanks for the feedback from all. Will post the results of install and ride performance after they are in.

*Fatheadjames: Thanks for posting the ebay link above. I appreciate the effort!
 

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'10 Camaro RS/SS
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1. If you're buying the Energy Suspension bushings, make sure to get the black ones. They are impregnated with graphite to "aid" them from squeaking. The red ones are much noisier. You will also need to slightly sand down either the opening on the lower control arms, or the new shells on the lower bushings as the Energy Suspension ones are just a hair too large.

2. Use ONLY 100% silicone grease on polyurethane bushings. Lithium based grease will eat up poly bushings. Summit Racing sells Prothane silicone grease in a 14oz tube for a grease gun!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
00RedRT,
Thanks for the feedback. Already ordered the red ones so I'll have to live with what comes. They do include a couple of small tubes of the silicone grease with the order. Appreciate the tip about sanding the openings a little.

A couple of the articles I read said to use a press to install new bushings. Do you know if that's required or just something to make it go a little easier???
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I just found this on one of the sites selling Poly Bushings....interesting?

POLYURETHANE bushings NEED to be lubed!

Polyurethane can be noisy if done WRONG.

WRONG #1 You cannot blend anything into Polyurethane. Not even Graphite!
Nothing like this works because the family of Urethane
plastic does not like impurities.
(the word Polyurethane means blends of different Urethane plastics)

Graphite does not work for a couple reasons. If you put just a little in the Urethane then the graphite is fully encapsulated by the Urethane and the Graphite never touches the metal sway bar or a-arm shaft.
If you add a lot, then the Polyurethane falls apart because it does not stick to the graphite (remember, graphite is a slippery lubricant). You might as well throw handful of dirt into it.



Wrong #2 You cannot put in a grease zirk and tell people to grease it.
Polyurethane must have the right lubricant to make it quiet.
There are some lube greases that are bad for Polyurethane.
So there are all these greasable bushings caked up with the wrong grease and the Polyurethane bushings are still Noisy.

The correct lube is sent by PolyBushings.com with every kit that needs lube.
It works, it's green, it's sticky...and need be applied only at installation.


Wrong #3 You cannot cost reduce your Polyurethane products and expect a long and quiet life. Polyurethane is like anything else important to you. It comes in many different grades. Polyurethane can be designed and tempered a lot like steel.. If you design it to cure too quickly it becomes harder. Harder Polyurethane is Noisier. Shorter molding time means less cost. So between the correct chemistry and mold design, it costs just a little more to do it right. But it sure pays off.

Polyurethane needs to be lubed, so we send the "Poly Lube" with every kit. And we always endeavor to supply the best value for your money.
 

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'10 Camaro RS/SS
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00RedRT,
Thanks for the feedback. Already ordered the red ones so I'll have to live with what comes. They do include a couple of small tubes of the silicone grease with the order. Appreciate the tip about sanding the openings a little.

A couple of the articles I read said to use a press to install new bushings. Do you know if that's required or just something to make it go a little easier???
I've always used a 12 ton press to press them in and even then it's a PITA. I couldn't imagine doing this without a press. If you do then at least take them to a machine shop and get them pressed out and the new ones pressed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
00redRT: Thanks! I do work for a marina and I'm sure they have a press there. Sure hope this is the last time to replace these and that it will firm up the frontend play. This truck gets out of alignment so easily, and I really watch how I turn, miss potholes etc.

* Nice job on your ride (and so many other trucks here)! Too bad mine's a "work" truck for my sign business. I did some really nice graphics to advertise, but most of my money has been spent on repairing vs customizing.

Appreciate the good feedback from members on this forum. :>)
 
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